Sunday, April 14, 2019


                  Shunesburg, UT



Shunesburg is situated on the current boundary of Zion National Park, on the south (or southeast) fork of the Virgin River (aka Rio Virgin) at the mouth of Parunumeap Canyon in Washington County, Utah.

In the fall of 1861, Brigham Young called a group of people to leave Sanpete County and go to settle in southern Utah. This group consisted of Oliver DeMille, George Petty, Hyrum Stevens, Alma Millet Sr., Hardin Whitlock, Charles Clapper, and their wives and children. Oliver DeMille purchased some land along a small creek from an old Paiute Indian chief named Shunes (or Shones). A town site was laid out and a settlement commenced which the people called Shunesburg or Shonesburg and sometimes Shuensburg or Shirensburg. 

In the following year (1862), this little group of pioneers was joined by Alma Millet Sr., Artemus Millet Jr., Samuel Gifford, and Amos H. Stevens. 

And then in 1863 another group came, including Artemus Millet Sr., Walter Stringham, James Thaxton, John J. Allred, Hyrum Stevens, Barney Stevens, Elisha Stevens, Ezra and Franklin Stevens with their mother, and Elisha Everett. Later, Mrs. Mary Parker and her sons (Samuel and William), other Parkers, John Alma Beal, Joseph Millet Sr. (son of Artemus Millet Sr.), Walter Renner, Walter Winsor, George Potter, Eliza Potter, Guard Potter, and mother and sisters Sarah and Weltha, Joseph Scott, and others joined them. 

The population grew to 45 by 1864.

The pioneers built dams and tried to tame the unpredictable Virgin River. They dug an irrigation ditch and cleared the fertile land. They planted orchards, vineyards, corn, cane, cotton, and other crops, but it was 1865 before they finally had a good harvest. 

This little band of people lived in peace and prosperity, laboring together as one family until the Indian troubles of 1866. Then frequent raids by Navajo and Paiute Indians make it unsafe for this handful of people to remain in this isolated and secluded place. In the spring of 1866, the settlers from Shunesburg, Springdale, and Grafton moved to Rockville for mutual protection. They left their crops to mature behind them. But after all the families were safely settled in Rockville, the men would go in groups to their farms with whatever firearms they could muster up to protect themselves if attacked by the Indians. Fortunately, they were unmolested in their secluded nooks, while all around them, raids and murders were frequently reported. 

By 1868, the Indian troubles had pretty much subsided and some of the original settlers returned to Shunesburg. The community prospered and the population peaked at 82 in 1880. 

Shunesburg was always closely tied to Rockville. Until about 1865, the people of Shunesburg had no ward of their own and would travel the six miles to Rockville for religious services. Then Oliver DeMille was called as the Presiding Elder in Shunesburg and John J. Allred was made superintendent of the Sunday Schools. This ecclesiastical organization lasted for about three decades. 

Over the years as the flooding of the river washed away farmland, the Shunesburg settlers moved on, mostly to Rockville. Shunesburg was gradually abandoned. By 1897, there were no longer enough children to hold a school. By the year 1900, only Oliver DeMille was left and even he moved to Rockville in 1902. 

A 1904 report by the U.S. Department of Agriculture showed 35 acres of land under irrigation in Shunesburg.

Only the DeMille rock house, a cemetery, and some rock ruins remained of the town. 

The little land that the river left intact became private farmland without public access. It supported a commercial apple orchard for The Springdale Fruit Company. They let the descendents of those buried in the cemetery visit the graves each Memorial Day weekend. 

In 2015, the property was sold to a private individual and is being preserved. 


Here is an interesting video from May 30, 2016 in which Garda DeMille Judd talks about her great-great-grandfather, Oliver DeMille, who settled Shunesburg.  She talks about her family history, the history of the DeMille family and Shunesburg and offers some up-close pictures of the DeMille Stone House.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPVHSAlZVEg





DeMille Rock House

DeMille Rock House

Stone Wall Remnants

Gravestone in Cemetary


                                                                              
                        



                       Browse, UT



Browse is an unincorporated area of Washington County in southwestern Utah near Interstate 15. Browse is in a transitional climate zone as it is located between St. George, Utah at about 2800 feet above sea level in the Mojave Desert and Cedar City, Utah in the Great Basin at nearly 5900 feet. The Hurricane Cliffs, part of the Colorado Plateau, are directly to the east. This area contains species of desert plants and animals in one location that otherwise would be unique to each of the three above-mentioned desert regions.


There are no services in Browse. The area is used by ranchers to graze cattle. Hikers, campers, mountain bikers, and wilderness enthusiasts visit due to its close proximity to Interstate 15.

Currently the United States Bureau of Land Management is attempting to allow natural plants and animals to return after a large wildfire burned much of the area in 2003.



Built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1934 during the Great Depression, the guard station is a two-room “Plan 5” guard station, according to the Washington County Historical Society.

Originally, the site had been developed in 1921 as an experimental study area where researchers were looking at the possibility of using browse vegetation as forage for cattle. By the time the guard station was built by the CCC, however, the plan to graze cattle on the land had been discontinued and the new cabin was built in order to support deer management studies.


Probably the coolest thing about the station, however, is the giant sequoia standing in a grove of trees maybe 100 feet behind the station.  According to the U.S. Forest Service, the tree was planted in either 1933 or 1934 as a sapling by one of the directors of the research station. It’s been cored numerous times and the tree rings match the 1933 or 1934 estimate of when the tree was planted.


Take a break and spend a couple of minutes with the sounds of nature as Mill Creek babbles through a canyon in the Dixie National Forest.

http://www.thespectrum.com/videos/life/outdoors/2016/08/24/89304950/






                                                                           
                        



                     Irontown, UT



In 1850 this town called "Iron Mission" was settled by 120 men 30 women and 18 children. The Deseret Iron Company was founded, and iron production was under way. This plant was the second only plant west of the Mississippi where mined ore was made into pig iron. After only 8 years of operation, floods, needed repairs on the furnace and problems transporting the iron shut the plant down. Only 25 tons of iron had been produced at a cost of $150,000.00. In 1881 the Utah Iron Manufacturing Company was organized and was finished being built in 1884. In 1890 the plant was shut down because of cheaper imported iron from the east. In 1948 when it was decided to make this town sight an historic sight only a chimney from a blast furnace and one charcoal kiln was left standing and is all that remains today. There is a nice pavilion at the sight with picnic tables. The surrounding area is dotted with new homes and building lots for sale.

Here is a short but informative video about Irontown:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0I2TjDZYQQE

Charcoal Kiln

                                                                Iron Foundry remains






                                                                          
                        




                        Hebron, UT



6 miles W. of the town of Enterprise which is about 30 miles N. of the town of St. George which is "right off I-15".


Hebron was discovered in 1862 by people driving cattle. Several farms were started here and in 1868 the town received its name Hebron after the Biblical settlement. The settlers built a fort out of logs to protect themselves from the Paiute Indians. In 1867 a school house was built. Soon many shops, stores, and homes were built. Hebron was the largest town in the area. The farmers raised crops, milk cows and beef and sold them to other towns in Utah as well as supplying many mines in Nevada. In 1900 due to trouble with water and many felled attempts to solve the problems many people started to move away. By 1905 the town was deserted. All that remains of the town today is its cemetery. The cemetery is open to the public but all the surrounding area is posted to trespassing.




                                                                              
         


                      Grafton, UT


Grafton was first settled in 1859 one mile below its present town site. In January of 1862 the town was completely washed away by a flood. The people rebuilt the town a mile further upstream at its present site. By 1864 about 28 families lived here. There were many log houses, a post office, church, school and community hall. The town was deserted in 1866 due to Indian attacks. The people moved back in 1868. By 1920 only 3 families still lived here. Grafton has had parts of several movies shot here. Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid was partly shot in Grafton.


Right off the highway, the first house you come across, the church and two building are viewable by the public. However, there is a long, dirt road that leads to an area where there is another house, but it is blocked by a locked gate and "No Trespassing" signs. I don't know if there are any more buildings beyond that, but I'd really love to know!


This a very well done and very informative video about Grafton and it’s colorful history.  It starts off with the famous bike scene in Butch Cassidy And The Sundance Kid:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJdRaRR55dE












                                                                          



                   Silver Reef, UT


Silver Reef was discovered between 1866 and 1870 (There are many different stories about the founding of this town) However in 1874 a man named William T Barbee is credited with getting the mining going. In 1875 he had 22 claims here. In 1876 Silver Reef became an established town. Main street was over a mile long. Silver Reef had over 2000 people living here. There were hotels, 9 stores, 6 saloons, a bank, several restaurants, a hospital, 2 dance halls, 2 newspapers, a china town and 3 cemeteries. In 1891 the last mine shut down, about 25 million dollars’ worth of ore had been taken from the mines here. Between 1891 and 1901 another $250,000 of ore was taken out of the area. The old Wells Fargo Express office is on the National Historical Register and is now a museum. The old bank is now a gift shop. Some of the area has been preserved for its history and is worth visiting. A lot of the surrounding areas of the old town are now homes and housing developments and are restricted to public access.


Here is a link to an article and video from the St. George newspaper, the Spectrum.  It is entitled “Silver Reef: a ghost town that nearly disappeared” and provides not only good information in the video but also the accompanying article.  


https://www.thespectrum.com/story/news/2017/07/27/silver-reef-ghost-town-nearly-disappeared/513124001/






                           Wells Fargo Express office - faced Main Street in the center of town




                                                                 





             Lund and Beryl, UT


Lund and Beryl are both located about 50 miles west of Cedar City at the base of the Wah Wah Mountains. There are a few current residents (I was told mostly polygamists). In Lund, UT there are 2 pretty new (70s or so) concrete homes that are abandoned. They may have been owned by the RR for their employees as they are not for sale and some land and trailers in the area are for sale.  Both Beryl and Lund were railroad towns. They were the main stops for travelers to and from Cedar City before the construction of I-15. Apparently, the towns died after the highway was built.



REMAINS: Several abandoned buildings and railroad equipment.



The Lund Garage was owned and built in 1920 by Ollie Marion Norris. Ollie's father and two brothers helped work on the building. Ollie Norris had a homestead at Thermo, Utah from June 1913 until entering the service in 1918.



                                         Picture of Lund and Lund Hotel (approching Lund).



The view of Lund, Utah in 1920 from the train. If you can magnify there are people in front of the Depot.




















Monday, March 25, 2019

                                                                         
                                

                      Shivwits



The Shivwits reservation is located just Northwest of St. George, on old highway 91.  Some of our senior citizens will remember that Hwy 91 was the only road between St. George and Mesquite, NV until the I-15 was constructed.  Since 99.9% of drivers today use I-15 to transit between St. George and Mesquite, very few are aware of the Shivwits reservation.

History of Shivwits Band of Paiutes.

The Shivwits Band of Paiutes is a band of the Paiute Indian Tribe of Utah, a federally recognized tribe of Southern Paiutes in southwestern Utah.

The Shivwits Paiutes settled in Utah around 1100 BC. They hunted rabbits, deer, and mountain sheep and gathered seeds, roots, tubers, berries, and nuts, particularly pine nuts. They were farmers living along the Santa Clara River and the Virgin River and cultivated crops of corn, squash, melons, gourds, sunflowers, and, after European contact, winter wheat.[2]

The Dominguez-Escalante Expedition of 1776 was most likely the Shivwits' first contact with Europeans. Fur trader Jedediah Smith created a route to California directly through Paiute territory. The 19th century brought non-Native trappers, traders, and settlers to the area. The newly introduced livestock had a negative effect on the area's delicate ecology. Utes and Navajos often captured Paiute women and children and sold them to European-Americans as slaves. Mormons permanently settled on Paiute lands in the 1850s, putting an end to the Shivwits' traditional lifestyle.[2]

Their reservation was formed in 1891 with only 100 acres (0.40 km2). It did not receive water rights so they were forced to abandon farming.[3] The reservation had a population of 194 in that year. There were 154 Shivwits in 1906.[4] The Shivwits Band of Paiute Indians of Utah first received federal recognition on March 3, 1891 as the "Shebit tribe of Indians in Washington County, Utah."[2]

Along with other Utah Paiute tribes, the Shivwits' relationship with the federal government was terminated in the 1950s.[5] Unlike other Paiute groups the Shivwits retained ownership of their lands after termination and leased them to ranchers, instead of selling them outright.

Recent developments

The Shivwits regained federal recognition through an act signed by President Jimmy Carter on 3 April 1980.  The reservation is larger than it was originally, covering over 240 acres (0.97 km2).

In 2003 the Shivwits received water rights for 4,000 acre feet (4,900,000 m3) annually, enabling the tribe to create new economic development projects.

Today

The tribe is headquartered in Ivins, located in Washington County, Utah. Their Band Chairperson is Jetta Wood.


Here is a drone video that shows the Shivwits area.    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwUDUFw-rRg













          CCC Camp in Leeds, Utah


Very few of the countless travelers on I-15 are aware of the very interesting Civilian Conservation Corp camp that is just North of St. George in the tiny town of Leeds.  The address is:  96 W. Mulberry Lane  Leeds, UT 84746, and the coordinates are: 
37° 14' 5" North Latitude,  113° 22' 0" West Longitude.  The remains of the Leeds CCC Camp are one block west of Main Street (formerly Highway 91) on Mulberry Lane (200 South) in Leeds. The original camp area was approximately 20 acres. I-15 runs over part of the original camp area.

DESCRIPTION
The entrance to the Leeds CCC Camp was west from Main Street (now an extension of Mulberry) and had stone pillars with a large sign on each side of the road, with a stone wall along the north side.

The remaining buildings from the old Leeds CCC Camp are identified here as Buildings 1-4. Three are on the road level and one on the top of the hill. Buildings are numbered from east to west. They are of similar construction, but of varying size and window and door opening patterns. All four are built on concrete foundations, with walls of coursed rubble masonry and concrete. The local, red-orange sandstone was used for all building and retaining walls. The stone has been "squared up" to varying degrees. The mortar in the masonry building walls is weathered but appears to have been flush with the adjacent stonework. The buildings are all simple rectangular structures, with Buildings 1, 2, and 3 set into the hillside, functioning with the adjacent masonry retaining walls to create sloping terraces up the hillside. There is no overt decoration on any of the buildings; they are of simple, functional construction. The Leeds CCC Camp is contemporary with the PWA Moderne architectural style that was employed extensively in the construction of typically urban government and institutional buildings during the New Deal era (1935-40). While there are some slight similarities in style -- symmetrical facades and (relatively) smooth wall surfaces -- the Leeds CCC buildings were very utilitarian in design, and reflected simple, vernacular design.

Building 1 was originally the infirmary and is approximately 192 square feet in size. The main elevation, pierced by a single door opening (with a two-panel door with a single light), faces southwest. The north side of the building is cut into the hillside with grade level about one foot below the eaves. The only window openings are on the end walls, one window per wall. While the window sash is missing, from historic photos it appears that the windows may have been multiple light operable sash (hopper or single casement). The gable ends are sheathed in weathered 1x12 wood planks. Above the single door is a bracketed gable overdoor or porch roof. Both this room and the main roof are covered with deteriorated corrugated metal and the eaves are exposed, showing the simple 2x4 rafter ends. The interior is rough plaster with single wire light with bulb. It appears the north wall of all three buildings on the road level have been cut into the hill and forms placed to hold rock and mortar fill. When the masonry cured, the forms were removed, and the walls plastered and painted. A simple stone step and walk are in front of Building 1 and stone terraces extend from the east and west ends of the building.

Building 2, originally a dispensary/supply facility, also faces southwest, toward the road. Approximately 480 square feet in size, the floor and front porch with 6 steps are of concrete and stone, with a three-panel solid core door at the west end of this side. The inside walls are again white plaster. There are three taller windows in front, hinged to swing open and have 2 x 3 glass panes framed in wood with the same type of windows on each end of the building. The roof is corrugated metal and gable ends are again 1x12 planks. Lighting was provided by a single bare light fixture with exposed wiring.

Building 3 is approximately 360 square feet in size and functioned as a blacksmith shop. It has a southwest-facing, solid wood door and two windows in this gable end. On the northwest side of building, there is a double door and a single window. The windows are 2x3 panes in wooden frames. The northeast wall is set into the hill. There is a single window opening at grade on the northwest end. Inside along the southeast wall, a forge of some type was used and an extra-large metal stove pipe was used, flanged to fit onto the forge. The floor was of flagstone, a few still remain. The roof of this building has deteriorated diamond-shaped shingles.

Building 4 is on top of the hill at the southwest end of this promontory, above Buildings 1 and 2, in a position of natural prominence. It functioned as the camp commander's headquarters. Approximately 496 square feet in size, it faces southwest with a door opening almost centered on the wall with window openings on each side of the door. The windows were casements with 2x3 panes and wooden frame. The same type of windows were on the other sides of the building. The northeast wall has settled quite a bit at the south corner. On the outside of this east wall initials and names (apparently of several CCC "enrollees") have been cut into the stone of the building. This building had a large room with two partitioned areas, one for a small bath, toilet and basin, in the northeast corner. Eight inches west from the front door a partition extended from the south wall to the north wall with a door opening near the front (south). The same basic type of construction was used for this building -- stone walls with rough plaster, painted white. While the gabled roof has collapsed, it was covered inside with a ceiling of wallboard or celotex. Illumination was again from one, single wire lights, one in each room. The concrete floor had a linoleum floor cover. At the entrance, a small concrete walk, two feet wide, extends to the west and south to the terracing and steps. A level terrace, about twelve feet wide, was formed around this building with concrete retaining walls on the downslope sides. Officers from Fort Douglas and the CCC camp -- the "upper echelon," as one man called them, used this building. Commander Shipley also had his office here. While it is significantly deteriorated, the form and feeling of the building remain.

The other major, contributory feature (structure) of the district is the extensive stone terracing with integral stairways. The southwest side of the hill, between the buildings on ground level and the buildings on the top of the hill was all terraced. Each level being approximately 48 inches high and the top of each terrace was leveled out somewhat. The steps were made of the same local stone as used for the terracing, and these started on the east side of Building 2. There are four rows of terracing, with eight to ten steps between each row. On the southwest side of hill, going down to the north side of blacksmith shop (Building 3) there also exists a row of steps. On the west side, from the Building 4, a road goes down to the old road that was in use then. Approximately 120 feet to the north, from the bottom of this road, there is a stone horse corral. (This feature may be more closely associated with the U.S. Forest Service usage of the site.) Extensive rock work was done in the camp area but has been substantially destroyed. Some still remains outside of the proposed district (i.e., behind an existing house owned by the Prisbreys, the stone pier at the entrance to Mulberry, and near the on-ramp to 1-15).

Demolished buildings include the barracks which each housed 50 men, the dining hall, the library, and several other essentially temporary structures (see historic photos). These frame buildings were typically built on concrete foundations with 10 to 12-inch-wide board-and-batten siding and simple gable roofs. No type of insulation was used. Light was provided through multiple light, hopper (bottom hinged) windows and single, bare light bulbs with exposed wiring. Interior furnishings were spartan.

Also destroyed over the years were the latrines, showers, and swimming pool. The latrines were earth pits with seats made of wood, twenty holes each. Urinals were of galvanized iron and were nailed to the wall. Shower rooms were the same type of plank construction with concrete floors, 20 shower heads and floor drains. The pool was filled in c. 1980 when some CCC stone work on Main Street was destroyed by the Leeds Town Council. The stone work was bladed down together with large trees overhanging the wall and street. The debris was pushed into the old CCC swimming pool at the west end of the road (now called Mulberry). Just beyond the pool area is the fence of 1-15.

Remaining CCC-era features outside of the proposed National Register site include the stone entrance piers (now missing their steel and wood signs), some terracing of the earth, the frame horse barn, and the foundation of a pump house and the pond -- all located south and west of Mulberry. Of these features, only a few (the barn, stone piers and the pond) perhaps retain their integrity but all have been substantially altered over the years. While interesting, they are not essential to the current understanding or interpretation of the CCC Camp. The Leeds Historical Society has initially focussed on the structures within the parcel of ground likely to be donated for rehabilitation and interpretation (see master plan drawing). Additional features may be included as warranted by future research.

HISTORY
The Leeds CCC camp opened in October 1933 under the direction of the Dixie National Forest Service on the site of an existing ranger station. Stone was recovered from the neighboring silver mining ghost town of Silver Reef to build the CCC administrative buildings.

A large crowd attended the dedication of this camp on November 11, 1933. The American Legion conducted the program and the Dixie College Band played the music.

John Shipley was the commanding officer. Some of the other officers were Captain McBride, Fat Larson (a slim man), Dorsey, Verle Newbold, and Ken Carnahan. Al Dobruskey ran the big Caterpillar for the Forest Service and Dill Pickles (a nickname) was a mechanic.

Leeds, a town of less than 200, more than doubled with the opening of the camp. Two hundred young men from all over the country resided and worked at Camp #585. Townspeople were reluctant at first about the impact the camp would have on local life, but support grew as the CCC camp clearly provided a boon to the struggling economy of Leeds. The community became even more accepting as the men worked on local projects, like a swimming pool, in their off-duty hours.

The Leeds CCC crews built the road to Oak Grove and completed the Oak Grove Campground, which included a tennis court, wading pool, and playground.

The Leeds CCC Camp was closed in 1942, and most of the wood frame buildings were removed by 1950. These included the barracks buildings which were to the west past where the freeway now runs. Abner Perry from Cedar City bought the barracks and hired Reed Cox, Klingensmith, and Glenn Beal to dismantle them. He hauled the materials to Cedar City to build other buildings.

Construction of the I-15 freeway in the 1970s reportedly destroyed several remaining historic structures.

The remains of the CCC camp were recorded as an historic archeological site in 1989 as part of a survey for cultural resources near 1-15. The resulting form for site 42WS2394 lists eighteen features (buildings, terraces, roads, trash sites, etc.). Several of these features are located outside the boundaries for a nomination which focuses on the most significant historic features included in the property to be donated to the Leeds Historical Society.

The Leeds CCC Camp Historic District was added to the National Register of Historic Places (#1993000062) on March 4, 1993. Today only the four stone administrative buildings remain on 2 1/3 acres which make up the historical site. You may tour them today as they are just inside these monuments. The majority of the camp buildings, like the barracks, camp mess hall, and warehouses, were wooden and have not survived.

This is the only CCC Camp in Utah with buildings still standing.



Sunday, February 24, 2019



                  


                      Riverside, NV
The next time you find yourself in Mesquite, Nevada you might find it worthwhile to spend about an extra 20 minute and visit Riverside, Nevada.  Riverside is an unincorporated community in northeastern Clark County, Nevada, United States. It is located on the Virgin River near Bunkerville and Mesquite; the town is accessible via Nevada State Route 170, which connects all three towns. Riverside is the site of the highway bridge over the river.

History
Riverside is located on the route of the Old Spanish Trail, that entered the Virgin River Valley after crossing the Beaver Dam Mountains, reaching the river at what is now Littlefield and passed down river past the site of Riverside to the Colorado River where it turned west. After 1847, avoid quicksands and marshes along the Virgin River that bogged down wagons, the wagon road called the Mormon Road that followed the Old Spanish Trail in many places, passed through the site of Riverside where it turned north, away from the old route, climbing toward Virgin Hill where it turned west to ascend a steep narrow ridge to the top of Mormon Mesa. The road then crossed Mormon Mesa to the Muddy River crossing it opposite the mouth of California Wash, west of modern Glendale, Nevada and continued up that wash to Las Vegas Springs.



                         


                            Elgin, NV

If you decide to take the time to visit Carp, Nevada and still have some extra time on your hands, you may find a trip North to Elgin may be well worth your time.  Though it’s only a 20-mile drive from Carp, be advised it will take about 1.5 hours due to the road being dirt.  Elgin is a ghost town located between Caliente and Carp, Nevada on the eastern banks of the Meadow Valley Wash off of Nevada State Route 317.  The first settlement at Elgin was made in 1882.  A post office was established at Elgin in 1913, and remained in operation until 1966.  A former railroad town, it is now the location of the Elgin Schoolhouse State Historic Site, a one-room schoolhouse museum. There is an apple orchard nearby. 


Here is a video that talks about the history of the one room schoolhouse in Elgin.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fK1QqankUz8



                                                                     Elgin Schoolhouse